Taste of Christmas 2010

Free tickets came up on offer once again for Taste of Christmas so Sandra and I decided we had nothing (but time) to lose by taking them up. You can easily spend a whole day at the Taste festivals but by mid-afternoon the events start to really get crowded by which time I’ve normally had enough! Still, Sandra and I still made the most of our time at the festival which included being only metres from Heston as he officially cut the ribbon on the day’s opening (I couldn’t believe how rude some people were – there was a couple off to my side who still had a pretty good view of Heston, particularly considering how short I am, but was still pushing us around to get even closer)

Heston’s appearance in the Taste Theatre was scheduled second on the bill and learning from previous events we made sure to get to the Taste Theatre extra early (before even the first chef appeared!) to line up. There were two lines, one for the VIP ticket holders and one for regular ticket holders (us), and both lines ended up being even longer than they were last year. We were worried that all the VIP ticket holders would take up the seats but actually they are only guaranteed seats in the first five rows, and that included seats off to the side, and once they’d started filling the rows they let us regular ticket holders in … as a result we ended up nearly smack bang in the middle with better positioning than some of the VIPs! Although too bad about the camera!

But first up in the Taste Theatre was Silvena Rowe. What a character. This Bulgarian born on the Turkish border chef has been all over London and written a few cook books and even consulted on the movie Eastern Promises. Currently executive chef with the Baltic Restaurant Group she treated us to a very entertaining and sexy session (it’s her accent and her hair that does it …)

So Heston’s session was less about his cooking and more about other people’s cooking! He was actually judging a contest which involved members of the general public having a stab at a Heston-esque Christmas dish (Christmas with a Heston Twist.) There were three finalists who I must admit came up with some interesting creations. But before the finalists came up Heston discussed with us his cooking style and talked about exploring fully all of our senses.

We then got to sample his special Christmas mince pie and also this other thing which we were instructed to eat whilst holding our noses, which was a play on changing the flavour without bias of expectation.

The finalists were all clearly chuffed to be up on stage sharing it with Heston. One guy in particularly kept talking and talking and talking. I think he talked his way into winning. Ha ha! The first guy created “snow”, the lady Christmas cake themed cup cake (the Heston twist being the dry ice on the bottom creating a mood I guess) and then the winner created a re-visiting of an Eton Mess. At one stage Heston was like, uh, can I have the mike back now please? Ha ha.

After the Heston session it was off to try some of the food before the crowds got too ridiculously out of control. Pork belly was the order of the day for me – I can’t resist it!

Modern Pantry: Vietnamese Style Duke of Berkshire Pork belly, mash, pickled bean sprouts, crispy shallots. It may not look like much but it was pretty tasty.

Roast: Slow Roast Wicks Manor Pork Belly with Bramley apple sauce, root vegetable mash and port reduction. Delicious and perfectly tender.

Club Gascon: Foie gras popcorn. The popcorn didn’t really work too well with the foie gras but otherwise a nice dish.

Hotel du Vin: Braised Donald Russell Ox cheek, hickory smoked pommes puree. Getting very full at this stage – the ox cheek was melt in your mouth tender though a bit rich considering how full I was starting to feel.

I couldn’t resist more pork belly though with Hotel du Vin: Pugh’s roast porchetta, pommes lyonnaise and charcutterie sauce. Mmmm …

After lunch we headed off to the Waitrose Cookery School to burn off some of our energy, but I think we had a net gain instead of calories from the dessert we made (which we eventually ate!!)

We were partly through making our dessert when one of the assistant chefs came along and did this to our egg! Entertaining but don’t think Sandra was too impressed as it made a mess of our table and of our separating the yolk from the white! Ha ha!

Think the assistant chefs were more interested in having fun with us than anything else – but I didn’t mind! The whole session made me laugh!

The finished products

Love Cooking Festival 2010

Its not often that you get to see a whole load of top chefs appearing live on stage all in one day. Sure they make their appearances at foodie festivals etc. but this was a whole day dedicated to chefs shuffling on and off the stage to both entertain and cook for us. This inaugural Love Cooking Festival was held at Royal Festival Hall. There as plenty of auditorium space … but it was rather random which tickets you would get. Its apparently first come best dressed … and we ended up with front row seats though off to the side. This was quite good as we were right up there with no one the block our view … but it was sometimes awkward as the camera man would often get in our way! Still, that didn’t stop us enjoying our day.

After each cooking session the chefs were then available to sign their books. Laney and I got into a rhythm of running outside as soon as the session was finished to line up for the autographs. There was an hour in between screenings but this wasn’t nearly enough time for the chefs to get through the queue! It was quite hard work today – literally from 12 until 9.30, except for a small break for dinner, we were running to and fro. Very funny. It would have been a longer day but unfortunately Gary Rhodes, who was scheduled for the first session, couldn’t make it 🙁

First up on the bill was Richard Corrigan and Mark Hix (for the cooking) & Oz Clarke (for the drinking)

Gino D’Acampo, known as Hot Stuff, was the next session. What a beautiful man in both looks and personality … shame he is already married! Gino got out the pasta making machine and went back to basics just to show us how easy it was to make pasta. He also bunged some tuna on to the grill … for which he got the help of a lucky lady from the audience. Strangely rather than being excited to be both on stage and being up close to Gino the girl was oddly unaffected and barely even cracked a smile!

We make a nice couple huh? Heh heh.

Ainsley Harriott was up next. Ainsley is just a totally adorable man. The cynic would expect that such a big personality who comes across as bubbly and friendly on television might not really live up to this perception. We were really pleased to see that Ainsley is a genuinely lovely man.

Ainsley cooked up some soul food for us and Laney was lucky enough to get to go up on stage to sample. She looked after us though by bringing down some snacks for us tool. Good looking out Laney!

Rick Stein then took us into the dinner break. What I love about Rick is that he is just so very down to earth. Its really all about the cooking for him. There is no pretention and no pretending he’s this big superstar with an attitude. I really like that about him. He had us giggling about the first time he went on tv and cut his finger. The fact the video man kept flashing up the scene of the cut finger behind Rick at random intervals (so that we would all be laughing and then Rick would turn around to see what was going on but of course the scene was gone from the screen) had us laughing even more.

The laughs of the night had to go to Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, who hosted the last session. Hugh is best known for his “grow your own” philosophy and his commitment to eating seasonally, locally and ethically. He was another really down to earth chef. I don’t think he was drunk tonight but he was moving around the stage like a mad man – but in a really endearing fashion. He very self-deprecating and this really was quite charming. I don’t really remember much of the cooking but I remember it being a really good way to end the day. There was the cutting of the pumpkin moment …

Experimental Food Society Spectacular

There are all sorts of random events being held revolving around food recently. The last one we went to was the Bompas and Parr: The Complete History of Food which was truly interesting. Today it was the inaugural Experimental Food Society Spectacular.

The Experimental Food Society was started at the beginning of this year as a front for showcasing gourmet artists interested in more than just swallowing food. Bombas and Parr are members of this group.

It was crazy crazy busy when we turned up and you could hardly move for all the people inside. If it wasn’t for the fact I was keen to see what kind of genius creations people could come up with I would have bypassed the event altogether. Here are some pics of the things I saw today:

lovetocake’s Gorilla cake

Sharon Baker’s Body and Breast bread casts

Carl Warner working on his Lobster Landscape

Chocolate from Paul Wayne Gregory was just plain gorgeous. They were giving out sample lollipops which I nearly got stampeded over from girls trying to get their grubby mitts on them. This was one part of the event that I really hated – all these pushy people who didn’t care who they were pushing around.

This suckling pig look pretty rested …

Some sugar and butter sculptures

Oh, and look who we came across. Sam Bompas.

And some of their creations (in ethanol) in conjunction with the Robin Collective.

You got to play this ring toss “game” and then you’d get to sample some ethanol jelly … think it was nicer in concept than in taste. Very strong!

You’ve probably seen this guy’s work in an email forward somewhere. Takashi Itoh. Pretty brilliant carvings in watermelon.

Malcolm West’s Paul O’Grady in Jelly Bellies.

And finally, some live art. This dude started painting random people in the audience in chocolate. A brown guy in white chocolate, and a white gal in brown chocolate. Really funny.

PS Don’t you just love the pictures in the background!

We didn’t cough up the £75 for the banquet (which was basically grabbing whatever you could and eating it) afterwards but I’m sure it would have been interesting dining on the food that we’d all been looking at all day. I mean, imagine hacking at Sharon Baker’s Body of Bread. Ha!

London Fashion and Art Event

One of Cath’s friends, Sally Pang, was having a showing at the London Fashion and Art Event. I honestly had no idea what we were getting involved in. Tickets were £16 so I was expecting something fairly substantial. The Event as at the ICA at The Mall.

I was very surprised to see that actually it was quite small. It was billed as an alternative to London Fashion Week – but I think it had to grow quite a bit more to reach anything even approaching London Fashion Week. Still, I guess if you’re a new designer then any exposure is good exposure. Other exhibitionists included jewellery designers, photographers and artists.

Shanghai Blues Dim Sum Demonstration

One of the latest events being held at Shanghai Blues was a Dim Sum demonstration by the chefs at Shanghai blues. I was wondering how they would manage to host an event without sacrificing any of the dining room – turns out that they just ended up converting their main larger room into the classroom. The class, including one champagne drink and a three-course meal, was priced at £48 … which is not to bad.

I’m not sure how many times Shanghai Blues had run this dim sum making class before we attended tonight’s section because the organisation certainly seemed to indicate this was the first time. The fact that they took our names about four times was frustrating – I mean, how many times must our names have been ticked off their checklist!

The night started with a glass of champagne … interestingly when I asked for a non-alcoholic drink they couldn’t substitute anything and instead charged me for my lemonade. A bit rich.

The demonstration itself didn’t really start at the time that we were told. Everyone was sort of shuffled into the bar area but there must have been at least 30 of us and so there wasn’t enough space for everyone so we all just ended up milling around. There wasn’t any sort of official start to the demonstration except for the natural gathering of people around tables – which was more a case of people following other people. The demonstration was about half an hour with the chefs showing us how to make a variety of different types of dim sum (crystal prawn dumplings, sao mai, scallop dumplings and vegetable dumplings.) It was actually quite informative … but there were way too many attendants. Even splitting the group between two areas didn’t reduce the cramped conditions.

After the demonstration was finished we all had a chance to make our own dim sum (which was later steamed for our consumption) but even that was kind of a free for all so it was mainly the most aggressive who had access to the dough and the ingredients. I was a bit embarrassed because some of the more aggressive people were Chinese – cringe!

Making the dim sum was quite a bit of fun – especially laughing at how bad we were at it! Ha ha!

After the demonstration it was time to sit down for our “feast”.

Starters including fried treats (Mooli Croissant and Shanghai Crispy Turnip Puff ) and dumplings (Yuan Yang Prawn Dumpling, Original Shanghai Steamed Xiao Loong Bao, Crab Roe Seafood Dumpling, Shanghai Grilled Pork and Vegetable Dumpling.)

Main course was a Egg Fried Rice, Dried Fried French Beans with Garlic, Assorted Emperor Seafood, Steamed Sea Bass with Lotus Root, and Five Willow Sesame Chicken (oddly looked more like pork belly).

Dessert was a chocolate brownie with vanilla ice cream.

Food at Shanghai Blue was as usual up to their high standards. I was very happy to have them serve the Mooli Croissant as part of our meal. Portions probably could have been a touch larger on the mains though its not like we were starving after the finish of our meal. At first I was disappointed with a brownie for dessert but was pleased to find that it had the added surprise of popping candy – which seems to be the new rage in food this year.

Overall, the Dim Sum Demonstration event, though execution could have done with some finessing, was a fantastic idea as you got a good mix of some learning, some feeding, and some socialising.

Spots Versus Stripes

Cadbury were running this Spots Versus Stripes competition thing in Leicester Square – basically it involves mini-competitions between those on the Spots team and those on the Stripes team. It was quite an atmosphere in the Square today and all sorts of people were out – including this one guy walking his giant lizard!

I was surprised that the guy with his white minks wasn’t around too. He normally hangs around Leicester Square or Trafalgar Square at the latest.

So, I managed to convince Sandra to play one of the games called Slide and Dunk. Basically you slide down this rather massive slide in a potato sack and then shoot the ball into a hoop when you got to the bottom. The slide looked pretty big from the ground but when we got to the top it was pretty scary – even for someone like me who likes that kind of thing!

We did it though … and for friendship’s sake we will call it a draw 😉

Trafalgar Square Maze

I love the way they use Trafalgar Square to do all funny things such as the latest Trafalgar Square Maze. Too bad Sandra and I were headed off to dinner … otherwise we would have gone down to join in on the fun too!

Bompas and Parr: The Complete History of Food

Bompas and Parr are known best as the jelly mongers, molding jellies into interesting shapes such as well known buildings (like the Gherkin) and even glow in the dark jelly (this one for a Mark Ronson birthday party.) You can tell that these guys are all about innovating with food – but not just what you consume but how it smells, the textures, the tastes etc. For a few days only their latest venture is The Complete History of Food.

Pat and I had no idea whatsoever what to expect – all we knew was that we had to turn up at a particular time, that we’d get some food and, being sponsored by Courvoisier, a fair amount of alcohol!

The event was being held in a house on Belgrave Square. It turned out that every floor represented some decade in the history of food. The first room was our introduction. There was a guy there who was going to assess our “humours” – which apparently dictate whether your body was in harmony.

He would assess which humour was more dominant than the rest and based on this he would prescribe you a restorative. If you were:

Choleric you would get Cabbage (white wine, caper, artichoke) paired with a Courvoisier Exclusif Rose Water.
Melancholic you would get Popsicle (lemon, sorrel) paired with a Courvoisier Exclusif pear and Cardamom Sidecar.
Phlegmatic you would get Popcorn (truffle, porcini) paired with a Courvoisier Exclusif Apricot Martini
Sanguine you would get Fig (Beetroot, port, vanilla) paired with a Courvoisier Exclusif Spiced Meade with celery bitters

The mixologists and chefs from Saf were responsible for the restoratives and was served to us in a flooded Banqueting chamber. I tell you I hadn’t even started drinking yet and it was a challenge to walk into the chamber without losing balance – the threat of the water was real! But no one fell in which was good.

This was the Medieval period by the way. The next was the Contemporary where we took a lift all the way to the top floor! Actually the lift was a good thing because it basically broke up the group so Pat, myself and two other people (who where from New Zealand and were very friendly) had the top floor to ourselves for the next experience. Up here the treat was representing the current bounty of good food that we have in the world today. The Rocher a l’Or (Michelin starred chef Aiexis Gauthier of Gauthier Soho’s take on a “Ferroro Rocher”) was a port reduction centre, surrounded by duck foie gras, coated with caramelised almond and rolled in gold leaf. This was paired with a flat champagne cocktail with a fizzy grape (from mixologist Paul Tvaroh of Lounge Bohemia.) I really liked the idea behind the fizzy grape which was a surprise to the tongue and mouth.

From Contemporary we headed down to the Early 20th Centry where we were faced with a bouncy castle designed like the inside of a stomach! It was very funny! The message here was about the increasing consciousness about the effects of food on the body. The stomach showed someone who had eaten a TV dinner … which was our next stop.

The 1950s and the world of mass production and technology. This was really cool – no food here but a scratch and sniff TV dinner! Chicken, Chips, Peas and Generic Strawberry Pudding. It was very effective!

After this TV Dinner and our work out in the bouncing stomach we were starting to work up quite an appetite so we were very happy to see that our next meal was the Iguanadon dinner. The stories goes that on New year’s Eve 1853 Anatomist Richard Owen and sculptor Benjamin Waterhouse Hawkins teamed up to recreate life-size models of dinosaurs, the first in the world, at Crystal Palace to which 22 leading scientists were invited to dine in and around.

The food from Bistrotheque was lovely: duck confit with lentils, beetroot, black champagne sauce. The duck was cooked perfectly. Accompanying our meal was Josephine’s Tea Garden by Ben Leggett: Courvoisier Exclusif with green tea, apple juice and elderflower cordial, garnished with fresh mint leaves and citrus wedges. Refreshing but I’d had too much alcohol at this stage and passed it on to Pat!

Finally we entered the Renaissance. We walked in this room which was overwhelmingly pink and fully of dessert! This was inspired by the time the Earl of Leicester tried to woo Queen Elizabeth I with an entire garden full of dessert (over 300!) This was also of the introduction of sugar hence our dessert of candied Orange, iris Jellies and Ambergris Posset with Courvoisier XO. The Ambergris is actually the vomit of sperm whales and is a highly sought after ingredient in the perfumery world – as it ages it gets more fragrant. Apparently it makes a good flavouring in food too with some claiming its an aphrodisiac! Oh – I forgot to say there was a “biometric jelly” in this room where you put your finger into this electric monitor and once it picks up your heartbeat the jelly above it starts to jump around. Quite funny.

The experience tonight was extremely cool. It takes ordinary dining to another level and gave it an interesting twist. For the alcohol lovers you get quite a bit of alcohol and for the foodies there’s quite a representation from various fine dining providers in the London so you get a bit of both worlds. Great fun.

Dana Centre: The Science Behind Ice Cream

The Dana Centre at the Science Museum is a pretty cool concept – an adult focused venue it hosts a variety of
evening events focusing on contemporary science. Tonight’s event, though still adult-only, would appeal to the child in all of us: The Science Behind Ice Cream.

We had two speakers, Dr Chris Clark, from R&D at Unilever to give us his perspective on ice cream and Christian Oddono, from the famed Oddono’s in South Kensington to give us his perspective on gelati. Both were compelling and charming speakers, though of course the topic was quite interesting of itself!

Dr Chris Clark went first and I tell you there is so much about ice cream that I don’t know. For example, ice cream is at least 50% air with the other half made up of ice (30%), fat (4.5%-15%) which is used to stabilise the air bubbles to increase creaminess in ice-cream and the balance a “matrix” – a sticky substance which is composed of milk, sugars and stabilisers. He also talked us through how you make ice cream including olden days when they used to “refrigerate” ice cream using salt and ice only. No one quite knows who or when ice cream was made but his favourite story is that ice cream was invented by Mongolian Horsemen. Ice cream really needs two basic elements – cold and movement, so the theory was that when the horsemen were taking cream in containers as provisions for long journies the horses galloping caused air bubbles/ice crystals to form in the cream and of course in Mongolia it was so cold that it froze thus the creation of ice cream. Whether its true or not the story seems quite a romantic story of the origins of ice cream.

Then the demonstration part of his talk. After donning all the necessary equipment (goggles and gloves) he took a tub of chocolate custard, a bottle of liquid nitrogen, a wooden spoon and stainless steel bowl and ta-da he had chocolate “ice cream”. It kind of looked a bit of a mess but we could see where he was going – cold and stirring (causing the air bubbles.)

So the secret to really fine velvety smooth ice cream is a lot of fat (so you’ll find that a Magnum ice cream probably has about 4x the amount of fat of regular ice cream), but of course that wouldn’t be very good for our long term health! Therefore Unilever are trying to develop a way to keep sugar and fat contents low but still allow them to produce this ice cream and one way is to make the fat droplets really really small. Let’s see how they go! At this point of the talk Christian made an observation that fat goes the pleasure zone of your head so that’s why sorbets are less pleasurable than ice cream – because they have limited fat. As in all things there is research going on in this area to make sorbet more pleasurable.

Another way you can compare ice cream is that a higher quality ice cream like Ben and Jerry’s is going to feel physically heavier than a cheaper ice cream – and that’s why ice creams are sold by volume not weight.

I could have listened to Chris speak on ice cream all day but he wrapped it up and we got into our taste testing session! Crazy flavours of gelati that were home produced so to speak by Christian at his gelati store. The flavours were:

1. Salmon. This really tasted like a cold salmon mousse. Taste was much improved when eaten with the lovely waffle cone.
2. Mustard (Wholegrain Yellow Mustard). Though I probably wouldn’t eat too much of this one the heat in this ice cream was strangely refreshing in a way that say a chilli or wasabi flavour gelati wouldn’t be. Really strong flavours but like the Salmon the taste was much improved when combined with the waffle cone it came in.
3. Banana, Parmesan and Garlic. In a toasted sandwich this is actually exactly the kind of thing I’d eat (though I’d probably also through in bacon or ham ….) but in a gelati? Odd! Apparently this came from some ice cream creation contest that Heston Blumenthal was judging at some food fair a few years ago. He awarded it second place … behind a bombay mix flavour! Taste-wise this gelati really grew on me – the sweetness of the banana followed by the sharpness of the parmesan and garlic. But I suspect its not for everyone …

4. Chilli chocolate. Then we moved on to more regular and dessert like gelati. I wouldn’t normally go for a chocolate ice cream/gelati but this one was divine. Probably because the chocolate was very rich.
5. Honey and Lavendar. The best flavour of the evening I think it terms of actual palatability. Very very sweet though.
6. Green Tea. A refreshing flavour to have as the last.

Interestingly like a wine tasting the others at our table disposed of their ice creams after having a bit of a taste … but I wasn’t going to waste any part of them. 😉

Whilst we were being served our gelati poor Christian had the difficult task of talking! Clearly the audience attention was split between the tasting and his talk. He was quite a compelling speaker and told us of how he started his business (his background is actually in finance), speaking of the time his shop was featured in an episode of “Out of the Frying Pan”, and then describing the differences between gelati and ice cream. In essence gelati is focused more on using fresh ingredients, use of a different machine, and the fact it has a greater overrun than ice cream (that is, you can make more in volume) so it freezes a lot harder. He mentioned a few good gelati shops in London including Marine Ices (which has been on my to do list for a few years now!) Christian also spoke of the impact on the environment, e.g. sourcing fresh ingredients, and even psychology – he avoids colouring in his gelati as it impacts the behaviour of children.

Here are some fun facts:
– The top 3 flavours in England (according to Unilever) are: Vanilla, Chocolate and Strawberry!
– The worst flavours made by Oddono’s and Unilever were Guiness and a Pink Grape Fruit Ice Lolly respectively
– The Unilever Holy Grail is Fresh Strawberry ice cream. The problem being that as soon as you crush strawberry it loses its flavour.

It was an enthralling evening … even if my belly is aching a bit from all that ice cream! Heh heh!