Great Queen Street

After walking around for the London Open House event, I settled in for a late lunch at the place that just won British Restaurant of the Year in the London Restaurant Awards. It’s been on my list for a while, and because they typically take bookings, and I know that its sister gastropub, the Anchor and Hope is hopelessly busy I was fortunate it was fairly quiet for that time of day. From the outside, it looks like an ordinary restaurant or pub, with only a picture of a crown amidst a dinner setting instead of name distinguishing it from its neighbours.

The Menu

Dozens of tables inside huddle near the front of the restaurant, with only three or four alfresco tables outside. Even though they had plenty of tables to choose from, I decided to sit at the bar, if anything, just to get a better perspective of the entire place, and for an easy sideways glance into the kitchen, full of flames and a relentless stream of orders in and out.

Service wise, this place impressed me because not only was it fast, efficient but it was also friendly. Whilst perusing the interesting, apparently ever changing menu, they immediately placed a board topped with hearty bread chunks, butter, salt and coarse pepper, in front of me as well as a jug of chilled tap water and a small glass. I love this about places where you don’t even have to ask for it.

Cabbage

Despite the great service, what really matters to me is the quality of the food and I cannot express how delicious my meal ended up. With lots of tempting daily specials and many dishes resembling those you’d see at St Johns, I eventually settled for the seven hour lamb shoulder, and based on a recommendation, a side of green to go with it.

At the same time, as I contemplated a red wine to go with, the bartender graciously offered me a sampling of their wines including their Beaujolais wine, a lighter red wine whose full flavour peaks when it’s chilled. Although I settled for something different, I thought it very nice of them to offer.

Seven Hour Lamb

Being a seven hour lamb shoulder, it unsurprisingly came out quickly since it didn’t really need any other cooking. Even at £13, I thought the entire bowl was going to defeat my normally fearsome appetite, only to be satiated by the soft, melt in your mouth flesh accompanied by sweet carrots, and other vegetables in the dark gravy. The bright green cabbage brought a sharp and fresh contrast to the almost overpoweringly rich flavours of the lamb, and let’s just say I walked out of there a very content person.

Great for groups, couples and individuals, Great Queen Street offers something for everyone. If only I had room for dessert, I’m sure it would have been just as amazing as the main dish.

TheKua.com Rating: 9 out of 10

One of Alan Yau’s Newest: Sake no Hana

Recently I went along to Alan Yau’s latest Japanese themed restaurant that also won Time Out’s Best Restaurant for Design. It looks impressive, yet I have to say the overall experience disappointed and I’d rather spend the money at more traditional places like Sushi Say.

The design…

Taking over what looks like the first two floors of an office lobby, you enter via automatic round doors guarded by a bouncer into a rather non descript lobby. We almost missed the place with tiny small lettering only visible when you’re standing almost right next to it. To your left as you enter, is a less formal sushi bar, with the dining room accessible by a set of two tiny escalators moving up and down. You check in at the tiny desk at the front before a an attendant seats you at the bar while you wait for your table. The tiny escalators, perhaps intentionally designed to induce a claustrophic sensation, take you to an even tinier coridor.

The dining room sits underneath an array of light wooden square frames creating sharp and contrasting options with soft yellow lights casting their glow in the circular dining room. Around the outside perimeter of the building, diners sit at more traditional tables where they need to remove their shoes before seating, with the inside used to host regular tables and chairs. Though impressive looking, I’m really not so sure why they got voted the best design as I’ve seen better at other places.

Sake No Hana

The service…

For a place that should have been astonishing with their service, I’m afraid these people are still practicing. I was already put off by being made to wait at the bar when the restaurant was clearly empty, and I’m sure our table clear. Instead we were made to wait at small tables near the bar, until we ordered.

We asked for tap water, that they ended up serving in a tiny 200mL glass. I wouldn’t have worried so much except that they didn’t give us a jug and the attendants only refilled them once throughout the night, despite the sodium rich food leaving you wanting more liquid. I’m sure that had we been paying their £3.75 per bottle of water, or more for wine, they would have been better.

When the food arrived, it somehow took two people to serve the samll plates of food each time – one to hold it, the other to put it and present it on the table. The final straw was when it took at least fifteen minutes for them to bring the bill after asking for it specifically and giving up trying to make eye contact with at least one attendant in another fifteen minutes.

The food…

Since they opened, it’s obvious that they have listened to the feedback offered by numerous reviewers. Unlike before, the menu is now roughly grouped into different areas like fried, grilled, stewed, appetisers, and the dishes significantly larger than the others marked as “for 2” or “for 3”. Their menu still lacks descriptions so be prepared to be very adventerous, read up before going, or already know a lot of Japanese dishes. Having eaten at many Japanese places, I didn’t really know what to expect from a number of them, although I could take some rough guesses.

We tried a few new dishes including the sesame aubergine, tempura figs with yuzu salt and the soft pork ribs. Out of them, I’d have to say the ribs were the best that, although not fall of the bone soft, were actually pretty easy to eat even with chopsticks. The meat was sweet with the vegetables served with it providing lots of flavour. The tempura figs provided a sharp contrast to the strongly flavoured citrus infused salt. I can’t say that the dishes, as good as they were are worth the money you pay for at this restaurant.

Conclusion…

I get the feeling most people dine here to see and be seen. As much as a unique Japanese experience Yau wanted to create, I’d rather go to a proper Japanese restaurant than return to a place that obviously still has teething problems.

Value for money: 4/10
Food: 7/10
Service: 4/10
Atmosphere: 6/10

Overall rating: 5/10

Leong’s Legends

I caught up with a friend for lunch here last Sunday, with a combination of dim sum and their famed xiao long bao. For those unaccustomed to the latter dish, imagine a soft steamed dumpling pinched together barely enclosing a meat filling buoyed in a mouthful of soup. Eating it straight from the steaming basket invites a burning mouth if you’re not careful. The customary way of eating it, is to place a dumpling on the soup spoon, pinching a tiny hole in the dumpling before seasoning with either the dipping sauce they give you or some chilli. This is one of the rare places to serve these dumplings, as you can imagine the hard labour making them, so £5 for eight seemed reasonable enough. The pastry wasn’t as doughy as I had read other reviewers write about, though the soup inside was definitely just as tasty.

The rest of the dim sum dishes we had were fairly sub-standard, considering the other competition all around them in Chinatown. Although each dish is cheap, with most priced at £1.80 or £2.00, the quality really reflects the price. The cheung fun (rice noodle rolls) barely held any filling, and the char xiu bao (steam BBQ pork buns) disappointingly unbalanced with mostly bread, and a bland filling. Considering that this is a Taiwanese place, I would stick to some of the dishes they specialise in, and skip what dim sum dishes you may be tempted by.

Xiao Long Bao

I found the atmosphere intriguing as well, where diners sit at rectangular dark wooden slate tables unlike the round white table clothed ones you’d find in restaurants nearby. Almost kitschy decorations in the form of armaments stand next to the staircase, towering over all the diners though obviously not very real.

Considering that we only spent £20 between the two of us, and we walked out of here considerably satisfied, I would come back when you want something a little bit different from the typical offerings of Chinatown.

Thekua.com Rating: 7 out of 10

Satay House

I remember first reading about this place as one that apparently the Prime Minister of Malaysia used to come and eat at when visiting town. It also happens to feature quite frequently in the listings in Time Out magazine.

satay house

It looks small on the outside, and you can tell they’ve put in as many as tables as they could without making it too uncomfortable. The top floor entrance seemed buzzing with people, and with our 8:30pm booking, we ended up downstairs where it was a little bit less frenzied and a bit more relaxed. Large teardrop lightings fill the olive green painted walls with warmth with the dark brown square tables providing a sharp contrast to the dining atmosphere. They even had a more intimate dining ‘alcove’ downstairs which we saw one party fill, complete with mini teardrop downlights and black pseudo-leather couches.

Chicken Satay

Compared to a lot of other places, I have to say that their menu all looked really tempting and it was pretty hard to stay focused without being distracted by all they had to offer. Their menu is organised around rice, noodle, sides, chicken, beef, fish, prawn, vegetable and for those who can’t make up their minds, a series of different set menus matching both appetite and budget (£15.50 – £26.50)

Mee Goreng

All of their dishes really impressed me and I thought worth the little bit more that they charge. The very simple Nasi Aayam (steamed chicken with rice served with soy and chilli sauce) remained thoroughly moist and flavourful, even without the dipping sauces. The satay sticks had their perfect amount of smokiness, and also remained moist with the only downside being the peanut sauce not being as spicy as I would have liked it (and understanding that it typically isn’t that spicy). I also liked the fact that their mee goreng (friend noodles) contained plenty of flavour and not just soy sauce as evident from the heat given off from whatever chilli paste they used throughout it.

Chicken

The only fault I can really give this restaurant was the rather lack lustre service that was never in your face yet, nor was it particularly attentive when you did want something.

TheKua.com Rating: 7 out of 10

The Modern Pantry

I’m glad more and more decent cafes are opening up around Clerkenwell, especially since it’s very convenient for me. I’m therefore very glad that The Modern Pantry opens its cafe for breakfast Saturday and Sunday offering a decent selection from basics such as toast and porridge, to the more exotic sugar cured prawn omelette or feta and onion waffle.

Modern Pantry menu

Our group decided to try the ricotta pancakes, grape and stone fruit compote, creme fraiche and one of the classic fry up (with poached eggs instead).

Pancakes

The dining room is bright, helped by the large windows that surround two of the large walls. They also have a small bar area that people ended up standing in to avoid the squall-like downpours whilst they waited to be seated. It seemed to get quite busy the closer it seemed to lunchtime.

Fry Up

The coffee is reasonable, and with ex-Providores experience, a flat white order was taken without question. When it arrived, it was certainly a decent brew, although looked a bit lacklustre when it arrived. The breakfast menu is reasonably priced, and with high quality tasting ingredients I really couldn’t complain. The fry up came with perfectly poached eggs (the white just cooked with the yolk still runny) and flavourful tomatoes, mushrooms and salty streaky bacon crisp and not burnt. The pancakes on the other hand slightly disappointed. They were fluffy and light, yet the stone fruit compote towered over the small golden discs, and upset the delicate balance that should have been presented.

With a decent breakfast offering, I’d be interested to see what a proper lunch and dinner menu would look like in the upstairs dining rooms. It’s a welcome addition to the area, and a great place to meet up with friends.

TheKua.com Rating: 6.5 out of 10

The Clerkenwell Dining Room & Bar

I booked three of us in for dinner yesterday as I’ve walked past this place dozens of time. I’ve always thought it a little too fancy, most of the time seeing people in suits, or couples for some sort of romantic dinner. Inside it’s both intimate and roomy at the same time with most of the tables spread out against each wall, leaving plenty of personal space without the feeling that you’re dining by yourself.

Amuse Bouche

The menu, put together by head Chef, Andrew Thompson is a combination of classic European dishes, nothing especially fancy, yet all very appealing such as seared salmon, rump of lamb and a crisp confit pork belly. Throughout the night, the kitchen impressed us with all the little food touches they brought throughout the evening, starting with a amuse bouche, a bread basket (white and olive bread), and a handful of bite-sized chocolate, caramel and chocolate chip assorted plate with the bill. The waiters presented the amuse bouche, describing that it was a gift from the chef, yet didn’t explain what it was exactly. Whatever it was supposed to be (to me it tasted like a small amount of pumpkin soup, drizzled with coriander oil and served in a shot glass), it was thick, creamy and definitely tasty.

Roast monk fish

The rest of the food, for some reason I found was reasonable and filling, yet not quite spectacular. All indicators pointed in the right direction – the monkfish I ordered perfectly cooked, the pork belly someone else ordered melt in the mouth, yet all dishes seemed overseasoned and though pleasing, missing that special thing to delight. Admittedly each dish was beautifully presented and we still enjoyed each dish.

Pork Belly

Thankfully, service for most of the night really impressed us with our tap water constantly topped up, and enough time given for us to peruse the menu without waiting too long. I think it did break down was the rest of the restaurant filled, as after we had finished our desserts, we ended up waiting another ten minutes for the pot of mint tea we had ordered (with the desserts) finally arrived, and another significant amount of time to get the bill. Admittedly our waiter was extremely friendly, smiling all the time and quite helpful at explaining the menu.

Lemon Ricotta Cheesecake

Though I won’t be running back to the Clerkenwell Dining Room anytime soon, we had an enjoyable evening in a relaxing atmosphere, and indulged in quite a lot of food. I’d recommend this place for groups of up to four, and definitely more suited for doing business or the romantic dinner.

Jom Makan in London

Before arriving at this place, I had expected quite a lot. The restaurant looked roomy, bright and yet seemed just a little bit too empty for a Friday night near busy Trafalgar Square. Unfortunately it is just too out of the way of the tourist eyes to really catch that much attention. My biggest surprise about this restaurant is how it follows the "quick service" style made popular by Wagamama’s. As our waitress put it, "There are no starters, only sides." Even just like Wagamama’s, they print the desserts on the paper placement, writing the item numbers to remind them who ordered what.

Jom Makan

Our waitress asked us if we had been before, and answering no, she gave us the grand tour of the menu, highlighting how it had been split up and what dishes needed additional sides. We decided to order the Rendang Tok, Mee Goreng, Tauhu Sayur, and satay skewers. Combined with the dessert, service and a couple of non alcoholic drinks, our total bill just reached £40 for two. Prices are reasonable with each dish hovering around £8.

The food arrived in different bursts, and although beautifully presented on bright white crockery, ended up overwhelmingly ordinary. Perhaps it was the fact that no dish actually came hot, or even warm, with all the dishes (with the exception of the satay) arriving at room temperature. To be honest, I just didn’t really know how to take that. I mean, either the kitchen doesn’t cook a lot of their dishes fresh (which I could believe), or the "quick service" is not really as ‘quick’ as they advertise. Either way, the result was the same for what should have been steaming white rice, or steaming freshly cooked noodles. The mee goreng honestly disappointed, mainly because it just tasted like a whole lot of vegetables quickly mixed with some egg noodles and none of the slightly charring I associate with this dish. The beef, as flavourful as it was, just didn’t melt in the mouth as it really should have and the tauhu wasn’t really anything special.

Satay

Surprisingly it was actually the desserts of the evening that ended up as the stars. A seriously creamy creme caramel in a dark treacle-like syrup and a sago pudding infused with palm sugar and coconut cream. I doubt I’ll be going back anytime soon, although it’s a passable choice if you have a craving for Malaysian food and happen to be in the area.

TheKua.com Rating: 5 out of 10

Tayyabs in London

Tayyabs seems to instigate very strong reactions in people who know of its existence, either really liking it, or disliking it. Their offerings are really simple and clear – a selection of Pakistani and North Indian appetisers mostly served on a sizzling platter, a variety of different curries, standard bread and rice and a small selection of drinks including a very generous sized lassi (I highly recommend the Mango one).

They don’t sell alcohol, instead opting for a Bring Your Own (BYO) licence so if you want wine or beer, you can really have whatever you want.

Service for food tends to be very prompt, almost on the side of excessive eagerness and pressure to both order and clean up at the end. This is completely understandable when you look at the long queue of people inside, and often outside. One of the diners I was with found it a little on the rude side, although I think it just comes with the territory of the restaurant wanting to please all and is a way for them to keep the prices down.

Tayyabs

This restaurant is easily accessible from both Algate East and Whitechapel tubes, and just a small walk away from Brick Lane. I reckon it offers much better foods than many of the other places on Brick Lane, and made much better without the constant harassing or pressure to come and dine. This place knows what niche it fills, and that it doesn’t need any more advertisement.

Their prices are extremely reasonable and I’ve found their quality consistent enough to want to recommend to people who don’t mind walking just that little bit further away from brick lane. Thanks to Simon and Fabio for a great night out!

TheKua.com Rating: 7 out of 10