Travelling Tips for India

BusTravelling in some countries is easier than others. Travelling around India hasn’t been too bad though there’s a few things that I didn’t realise you would need. Here’s a list to help you if you happen to travel in India.

  • Take your residential address with you and a contact number. When checking into hotels, they will need the address of where you are considered as “residential”, even if it’s a hotel.
  • Take your passport with you. Like the above need, hotels need a photocopy of the front page and the visa. You may want to take a photocopy of both of these things if you feel uncomfortable leaving your passport behind.
  • Print out a map or two of where you are staying, relative to the roads. Not all taxi drivers know all the roads around the city, especially if you’re travelling long distances. Pointing it out where it’s relative to (something like MG road) might help you find it easier.
  • Print out your hotel name and address. Language and understanding of some hotel names may be confusing, so it’s easier if you have it written down somewhere.

Coffee in India

I thought finding quality coffee in London was hard until I arrived here in Bangalore. Two very noticeable traits about coffee I’ve had here is that it’s very watery (or milky) or has plenty of sugar. This probably extends to their tea as well (though chai masala is very very nice!). Check out how many packs of sugar they gave for this single coffee.

Coffee in India

Use Your Right Hand

One of the lessons you quickly learn in India is to use your right hand for pretty much most things. The theory goes something like the left hand is dirty because it’s associated with cleaning activities that would leave it… rather unhygienic.

When you eat Indian food with your hands (it’s a very common thing), you start to learn the art of tearing bread with only your right hand, and eventually learn how to eat rice with that same hand. Tearing bread so far seems quite easy but I haven’t had much opportunity to practice eating rice as yet. Mmmm… all those fresh naan, roti and paratha breads.

Asking for a Caffeine Overdose Anyone?

Then read about a guy who hit all 171 Starbucks in New York in a day. Check it out here.

Tripping around Kochi

RainI know that I’ve only been in India for two weeks, however knowing that we’ll be moving to Pune in mid-November, I thought this weekend would be a good chance to see a little more of Southern India. I really wanted to visit Kanyakumari, the southern most tip of India but the flight and a very long train ride both there and back put it out of reach for a weekend trip. The next place recommended to me was Kochi. Trying to book flights and hotel ended up being very confusing as the city used to be called Cochin and though they sound very similar, the last thing I wanted to do was book a hotel in one city, and fly to another.

I arrived pretty late, and after an hour-long pre-paid taxi trip to my hotel I arrived in the middle of Ernakulam, the mainland of what makes up part of Kochi. I grabbed dinner at a local restaurant since it was pouring down with rain. I woke up to even more rain the next day, and since my hotel didn’t have an umbrella I could borrow, I took a rickshaw to first find a store that sold an umbrella and then made my way to the main ferry station. Umbrella in hand at only INR170 (£2.40) I caught the next ferry to the more touristy, Fort Cochin Island. The ferry was really something. I happened to be the only non-local on it, which by its nature meant plenty of staring. The ferry was not a very big boat, and loaded with lots of people, it really didn’t go very fast despite its very noisy and large gasoline engine. Blue tarpaulin hanging off the sides was all that kept the torrential rain (barely) outside. Quite an experience I must say and very glad to say one I survived.

Feeding PigeonsI finally arrived at Fort Cochin Island, if not slightly damp, that although is slightly touristy also holds Kochi’s most appealing sights. A richshaw driver suckered me into a local tour, and although it started off very pleasant with visits to all the churches, museums and many sights of the island, also meant I was forcibly stopped at ten different stores around town. I feel like I spent much more time being herded from store to store without actually enjoying myself. One exception was a store found on Bazar Road found in the Mantanchery district (that is also known as the Spice Market) called “Castle”, and fortunately the only thing I bought something in. It ends up being one of the tallest buildings in that area, with a great sitting area up top looking out over the island. I sat there with one of the shop-keepers having tea for quite some time chatting about the local area and was probably one of the best bits to the day. One thing I learned, for example, is that people in Kochi actually eat quite a lot of beef which counters both the idea that Southern India centres around vegetarians and the sacred cow.

More rainI’d probably avoid the Portugese Museum that, although shows some of the history of the Island, is really not that big or impressive. Instead, I’d spend some more time at the Jain temple, found in the Mantanchery district and if you manage to co-ordinate your timing to arrive at around noon, you’ll get to see them feed the pigeons. Like clockwork, a quick call out rounds up hundred of pigeons that do a quick loop of the temple before landing around the priests that man the temple. A few prayers are held before a bag of seed is poured out everywhere. They even let visitors feed them directly by taking scoops of the feed and holding them out. Other things that are worth seeing include the Chinese fishing nets down by the harbour, the several churches on the Island and one of the only beaches in the area.

IslandingCompared to both Mysore and Bangalore, Kochi offers quite a different experience. It’s obviously much more coastal with plenty more bodies of water (though probably still not very drinkable). It’s home to the shipping yards and we even saw some very impressive ships docking at one of the other islands. The recent rains also meant that the water was filled with plenty of uprooted water vegetation and didn’t seem to bother any of the tourist boats. They have some lovely restaurants, both by the water and not, with the focus more on the seafood and coconut-infused curries obviously very popular. Coffee didn’t seem to get any better here (still very watery) and although locals stared plenty at me, many of them still were very friendly about it. It’s a great destination to chill out as a tourist and I would definitely return to do several other things had I much more time in India.

Check out the pictures from the trip here.

Eating in Bangalore Part 2

A few more places that we’ve eaten at:

  • Ginseng – Located in the Royal Orchard Hotel off airport road, this pan-asian restaurant focuses mainly on Thai and Chinese food though also offers a couple of Singaporean offerings. It’s generally on the more expensive side (for India), with starters, a main and some beers costing about INR1200 per person. Food quality is very good though and despite the curries not being as hot as they could be, definitely had a good kick to them. The restaurant itself didn’t get as busy as it could have while we were there. In fact, only one person occupied a single table (out of the thirty or so) when we arrived though filled up in the next couple of hours. I’d definitely come back here and try the Singapore Chilli Crab at only INR700.
  • Mainland ChinaSethji Home Made Foods – A great local place that offers some great varieties of paratha. Very cheap at only INR40 for a couple of fresh paratha’s with some sauces to dip them into. As hinted at the name, it feels like one of those local restaurants someone is running out of their own home. Definitely recommended for some nice fresh food. Found at: 2148 8th Main 2nd Cross Opposite KEB Hal 2nd Stage Indiranagar, Bangalore East.
  • Mainland China – Chinese cuisine with an extensive food menu (almost like a book!) with a list of interesting cocktails as well. We ate at the two floored one, that was actually not too bad. Lots of different dishes to choose from here, with lots of meat, vegetarian, rice and noodle dishes. Price per head for a large meal including a couple of drinks ended up around INR650. We ate at the one located here: Golden Lights, No.4032, 100ft Road, HAL-II Stage, Indranagar, Bangalore.
  • Brio the cafe Bistro – Found at a Crossword bookstore, this cafe has a couple of outdoor tables where you can drink some of the very milky coffee and tea with some cakes or biscuits. Very much set up in a Starbucks style with lots of cold drinks and many things with a light coffee basis, but probably missing out. Sitting outside is quite nice. I think this is the one we went to: 12th Main Road, 5th Cross Road.

From Bangalore to Mysore

St Philomenas ChurchEvery immersion class we run, we take the students sightseeing to an area outside of Bangalore called Mysore. Since it was my first class, I went along with all the students from this class that, although ending in a very long day, was very fun.

Mysore is famous for many different reasons and is considered the cultural capital of the state of Karnataka. Our trip happened to be in the midst of one of the many festivals, this one celebrating the goddess Chamundi slaying the demon Mahishasura. During this festival that lasts for ten days, the Mysore Palace and its 100 000+ light bulbs are turned on all night and many other celebratory activities take place in its grounds.

Mysore PalaceThere are plenty of places to visit in Mysore, and we managed to hit quite a lot of them despite all the traffic between each of them. After a three hour bus ride, we arrived at St. Philomenas Church, a fairly newly built church constructed by the Portuguese and is apparently one of the largest churches in the country. It even has a small catacomb that you are allowed to walk through.

Cows RoamingWe then met our local tour guide, who also happened to be born and raised in Mysore, at the famous Mysore Palace. It’s a very large palace, surrounded by an imposing four gated wall, and filled with lush gardens including a beautifully kept rose garden. You’re allowed to take pictures inside the palace grounds but you’re not allowed to bring your camera or your shoes inside the actual palace building. There’s a convenient booth for you to leave your camera near the entrance, and a very busy shoe counter just outside the palace entrance. The palace is amazingly decorative inside and is influenced heavily by Hindu beliefs, with many of the gods and goddesses intricately carved in all of the doors, ornaments and hangings. There are some very interesting paintings, plenty of artefacts and the large and heavy gold throne of the King.

Coconut GraveyardWe eventually made our way to Chamundi Hills that gave us a great view over the entire city. It’s also home to a statue of the demon Mahishasura that the goddess Chamundi slayed and a Hindu temple for the goddess. We didn’t enter the temple up there, choosing to walk around watching the way that cows would roam free, monkeys indulge in many of the scraps and just take in the general atmosphere.

Flowers at KR MarketAfter a quick visit to some local markets, we headed for our final destination, the Brindavan Gardens. Cantered around a major lake, the Brindavan Gardens house a musical fountain very much like the show that you might see in front of the Bellagio though set to some Indian music. A lot of the locals enjoyed the show and even though it lasted for half an hour, I found it slightly disappointing.

It was an exhausting day, starting at 7am and ending at around midnight by the time that we came back. The three hour trip back to Bangalore went by really quickly with a really great game of charades.

The Leela Palace Champagne Brunch

Outside in the gardenThe Leela Palace is one of the most expensive hotels to stay at in Bangalore, apparently costing up to USD500 equivalent night. Internally it’s spectacularly decorated with rose coloured marbled columns holding up the high ceilings. As you walk into the complex, it’s easy to realise this is not your average hotel as you’re stunned with the smell of fresh rose petals.

The Leela Palace is known for many things including its library room (to be covered in another entry) and its famous Champagne Brunch at their restaurant, Citrus. At INR2000 (£26) per person, this meal is comparatively much more expensive as a place to eat though is well worth the money for a special occasion.

BreadsIts food range is unmatched by other restaurants in Bangalore, offering salads, soups, cold plates, Indian food, Chinese food, grilled foods, Japanese food, a number of Western dishes and an entire bar of desserts on offer. They even offer a specialised kids food section, at the perfect height for a very small child.

Better yet, you can order pretty much any sort of drink you like although Indian champagne is the standard drink offered to everyone. Although I’m not a huge fan of champagne, the drink on offer is actually very drinkable. Looking around, there’s nothing stopping you from ordering alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks, different types of lassis, other soft drinks and bottled water as well.

DessertsI’m typically not impressed by service in places like this, but the waiters tended to come by enough to fill up our glasses, take away our plates and generally be around to ask for other drinks without being excessively “in your face”. We stayed for a decent three and half hours enjoying the alfresco dining and the cover band dishing out live music and managed to not stuff ourselves too much.

It’s a great experience that I think you have to do once, and although apparently the Olive Beach offers a better brunch buffet, Leela still offers an impressive experience.

Location: At the Citrus restaurant found in the Leela Palace

Details: Champagne Brunch at Citrus
Found at: >Citrus Restaurant, Leela Palace, 23 Airport Road, Bangalore, 560 008, India
Cost: INR2000 per person includes all food and drink
The Kua Rating: 8.5 out of 10

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