TheKua Does Food

I’ve know about the vegetarian friendly Vanilla Black restaurant for some time. When it first appeared on the dining scene several years ago, it had some really great reviews focused on fine dining that’s vegetarian friendly yet using very modern techniques and presentation to raise the game of vegetarian cuisine.

We went as a group of seven with a booking on a Friday evening. When I arrived at the restaurant for our 7pm booking, it wasn’t particularly busy, but then the tiny hidden street Vanilla Black sits on isn’t one visitors simply stumble upon. Thus, I’m glad to see this restaurant still operating after many years, a good sign of excellent patronage.

When asked for a drink before dinner, a few of us were surprised they didn’t have a cocktail list, or even a very extensive drinking list. They seemed to have basic house spirits, wine and beer.

After deciding on what we’d like to order, they quickly brought out an amuse bouche, that ended up tasting like a bloody mary shot, a spicy tomato soup, served warm in a shot glass. A nice touch and a great way to warm the palette.

They also served fresh bread rolls up until our appetisers. The bread, soft and slightly warmed went well with the fresh butter they served although they also had olive oil and balsamico for those included..

My first dish, Cream of tomato soup with lemon and lime, served with crispy bread and parsley arrived. You can tell immediately it wasn’t a classic creamy soup with the tomato flavoured broth sitting beneath the creamy, slightly foamed cream on the top. Around the top of the cream, they dotted lemon and lime oils, the fragrance immediately noticeable when it first arrived. As far as soups go, this was such an extraordinary and exciting experience.

Choosing a main was easy, Poached duck egg and Ribblesdale pudding served with hickory smoked potato croquette and pineapple pickle. Admittedly I wanted to try many of the other creative and interesting concoctions, particularly the baked mushroom duxelle that proved particularly popular with our table. I had no idea what a Ribblesdale pudding was but the waiter explained it as something similar to a upside down soufflé. The dish was very well presented, perfectly composed and went down just a little bit too easy.

The final dish of the night for me was the olive oil and vanilla roasted pineapple served with chilli syrup, mango puree and white chocolate ice cream. I figured this was one of the lighter desserts despite wanting to try their popular peanut butter and chocolate parfait with iced banana and butterscotch sauce. Once again, I was thrown off by the interesting combination of flavours that worked so well together – the vanilla bringing another dimension to an already sweet fruit, only to be offset by a sudden kick provided by the chilli in the syrup. This rollercoasting sensations then quelled again by the freshness of the white chocolate ice cream.

I really enjoyed the meal at this restaurant. For three courses at £30 (not including service), I think it’s a bargain for the experience and flavour sensations you get.

Name: Vanilla Black
Found at: 17 Took’s Court, London EC4A 1LB, United Kingdom
Website: http://www.vanillablack.co.uk/

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For my sister’s birthday, we joined her friends, Nate and Caro for dinner at the Michelin-starred Chez Bruce. I took this as a bit of a surprise, particularly considering that French’s isn’t exactly my sister’s favourite and Chez Bruce is quite far from where we both live, but I guess a special occasion to dine at this well accomplished restaurant is still a good reason.

We’d booked ourselves in for a 7pm dinner, and due to unpredictable baby arrangements, our other fellow diners ended up slightly late. This was the first test of the restaurant, to see whether or not they would push us to hurry (which they didn’t) and if they took care of us in the meantime (which they did).

Chez Bruce isn’t a very large restaurant. On first guesses, it would hold about forty of fifty covers excluding the private dining room upstairs. It reminded me much more of Cambridge’s Restaurant 22 that appeared more like a family home that a restaurant, and I mean this in a good way. This could be changing soon since they’re undergoing some sort of refurbishment as I write this.

Whilst we waited, we were served a deliciously light and crumbly parmesan cracker dotted around the edges with black and white sesame seeds. I think we also had some bread served with butter although I don’t remember the selection being particularly snazzy. I guess my lack of pictures is one indicator of it.

I started with the brandade fritters with vegetable escabeche, chorizo and aioli. Although tempted by a number of the other appetisers, I’m really glad I ordered this dish. The batter was light and crisp and the brandade (effectively a salt cod mix) worked perfectly without needing any additional seasoning on top. Perfectly formed aioli brought a richness to the dish with the escabeche brining that slight heat.

As far as French dishes go, the blanquette of pig’s cheek with boudin blac, roast fillet, choucroute and crackling looked a bit of a mess on a plate. However as far as taste and variety went, this dish went in all sorts of directions with the boudin blanc (white pudding) a soft, slightly oily texture contrasting with perfectly crisp pork crackling. The meaty pork fillet providing heart to the dish only to be compared to the softest part and tenderest part of the pig – the pork cheek. Each of the spring vegetables brought even more flavours and complexity to the dish and did well to stick to classic French ingredients.

Strangely enough they brought out our truffles before our dessert although perhaps that might be because we ask for our tea and coffees at the same time. Verging on the point of being full, I skipped tasting any of them, despite there being enough for almost two each.

My dessert, hot chocolate pudding with praline parfait was abnormally large, for what I’d consider a French style dessert. Wickedly deep in flavour and excessively rich, I savoured every mouthful with the warm contrast of the pudding against the icy coolness of the parfait and then surprised by the crunch provided by the praline scattered about.

I’ve got some great pictures of the other dishes as well, but can’t really comment on the flavours. Here they are for completeness sake:

Appetiser: Roast calf’s sweetbreads with truffle velouté, mushrooms, spätzle and peas (+£5.00)

Appetiser: Gazpacho Andaluz with buffalo mozzarella and basil oil

Appetiser: Foie gras and chicken liver parfait with toasted brioche

Main: Sea bream with provençale vegetable relish, grilled baby squid, sauce nero, gnocchi and almonds

Main: Duck magret with borlotti beans, raviolo, foie gras, tarragon and sherry vinegar

Main: Lamb rump with Sicilian stuffed courgette, meatballs, artichokes and cherry tomatoes

Dessert: Dark chocolate delice with salted caramel sauce and clotted cream

Dessert: Pimm’s jelly with strawberries, cucumber and mint

Dessert: Crème brûlée

As far as service goes, I wasn’t as pleased with them as a number of other Michelin starred restaurants. We had to ask twice for our tap water jug to be filled and although they brought dishes and whisked them away in a timely manner, the attendants didn’t seem to be around, even for catching they eye when we needed to (like getting the bill).

Still, I really enjoyed the food there and given it’s a great value £42.50 for three courses (excluding service and drinks), I would definitely head all the way out there for another great evening meal.

Name: Chez Bruce
Found at: 2 Bellevue Road, London SW17 7EG, United Kingdom
Website: http://www.chezbruce.co.uk/

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To be honest, Liverpool surprised me with the decent eating given the ease you might find yourself in one of the chain eateries. I had a list of things I wanted to try, but didn’t get around to them. You’ll find this list below. If you have any good recommendations, I’d be keen about them as well.

• Bistro Pierre – French food with some very good reviews particularly great value lunch deals.
• Il Forno – An Italian restaurant apparently Antonio Carluccio and The Times approved of.
• San Carlo – A fancy looking Italian restaurant with an impressive bar. I stumbled across this and it really caught my eye.
• The Monro – The other gastopub owned by the same group.
• London Carriage Works – Apparently run by the 60 Hope Street folks, this place got some pretty good reviews.
• Penny Lane Wine Bar – Apparently some good food and drink although this apparently borders closer to pub food than restaurant food.
• Mayur – Apparently award winning Indian food. I was going to try this place instead of Chao Praya, but the latter caught my eye more.
• Lunya – A catalun inspired restaurant deli that looked really amazing. Tucked away near the Liverpool ONE centre
• The Egg – A hidden away, Liverpool institution that serves vegan/vegetarian food.
• The Italian Club Fish – A weird Anglicised Italian restaurant focusing on seafood.
• Gulshan – Apparently listed in the Michelin guide, this Indian restaurant is a bit of a hike out of the city centre. Must be good.

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I’ll admit it was the look of the Palm Sugar Lounge that made me notice this place. Located at the very top of the Liverpool ONE centre, the Palm Sugar Lounge looks slightly out of place next to the fun park set up just on the other side of the park. Chao Praya is the restaurant on the other side of its fancy looking lounge.

Looking for some Asian, I decided on this one, craving some really spicy food and given that their website looked nice, their menu delicious and the restaurant well decorated, I figured it would be worth a shot. As I walked in, I noticed all the Thai chefs buzzing around the open aired kitchen and the number of Thai waiters and waitresses buzzing around. This looked to be a great sign.

I started with their Tod Mun Pla (fried fish cakes) for £7.50. Four juicy golden discs soon arrived with a sweet thai chilli dipping sauce topped with peanuts and a small side salad. Freshly cooked, I warily cut into them, conscious of how hot they might be fresh from the fryer. They cooked these golden discs perfectly cooked and had a perfectly bouncy texture without being excessively chewy.

I’m always taken by the opportunity to have Thai drunken noodle and this month’s special involved a small variation, Udon Pad Kee Mao, the same drunken noodle but instead of rice noodle, used the classic Japanese buckwheat one for £12. As you can see from the picture below, the pad kee mao was generously peppered with large chunks of seafood and vegetables although I think the strangest adaptation was the addition of button mushrooms – something I’d never had, nor never really recommend in a dish like this. The chilli intensity in this dish definitely hit the edge of my tolerance and I caught myself sweating in return. I’m interested to see how their “hot” curries compare to a dish like this. Very tasty though.

I had a look at the dessert menu but felt rather full after this large meal. With two beers, the total ended up £26 although I also left a cash tip. Service was friendly, the place popular with locals and the food delicious.

Name: Chao Praya
Found at: 5-6 Kenyon Steps, Liverpool ONE, Liverpool, L1 3DF, United Kingdom
Website:http://www.chaophraya.co.uk/

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I’d read about the The Monro being a very popular gastro pub although I saw that they also ran the James Monro located on the other side of town. I ended up in this part of town after deciding to walk back from the Liverpool Football Club tour, a pleasant but uneventful walk back into town.

At first glance, it certainly looked like a gastropub but I was concerned it wasn’t the gastro pub I’d read about. The interior looked really appealing and even though it had just opened, I could imagine it getting busier as the afternoon rolled on. After looking at the menu, it was definitely going to be fine with me.

Strangely didn’t serve any local beers (Cains being the local Liverpool brewery) instead offered a Hobgoblin beer made by a brewery in Oxfordshire (nowhere near Liverpool). Still the waiter offered me a taste for free and it was a reasonable ale.

I started with a rabbit and bacon risotto, definitely needing a bit of warming up after the cold and windy walk back into town. As you can see from the picture above, the serving was a very decent size and the flavour rich and delicious. There was plenty of rabbit throughout and the small side salad was a nice complement to texture and flavour.

Next up was the 8 oz steak served with huge chunky chips and a small side salad. Topped with a peppercorn sauce, the steak was perfectly cooked and the chips perfect. The steak was surprisingly filling as well and I just didn’t have space for dessert.

It wasn’t until now, writing this up, did I find out this place is also a member of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society otherwise I would have picked a scotch for dessert. I’m a little disappointed a gastro pub like this couldn’t celebrate more local brews, but the food was definitely worth visiting this place. I’d also be interested to see how it differs from their other place.

Name: The James Monro
Found at: 69 Tithebarn Street, Liverpool, L2 2EN
Website: http://www.thejamesmonro.com/

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Being touted as one of the best places to dine in Liverpool left me no choice but to visit 60 Hope Street. Hope Street has a local reputation of being a street providing many gourmand choices, and 60 Hope Street owns a number of them, delighting people with their wares.

I arrived on a bleak, wet day where the Northern rains battered me from all directions. Stepping into 60 Hope Street, I noticed the bright and airy surrounds and the number of tables at 1:30pm still fairly well occupied. Admittedly most of them occupied by people I guessed well into their retirement. I was offered a selection from four types of bread (olive, sesame, white and brown) which went with the lovingly pressed butter (see the picture below).

Stopping in for lunch, I looked through the menu and it seemed such a shame not to try their great valued £19.95 for a three course meal with a bottle of wine between two. Although I dined by myself, the waitress still offered me the bottle of wine. I figured it would go to waste and asked if they had a half bottle when another solo diner, offered me a glass from their bottle, also observing that a full bottle would be too much. Still I think it’s very nice for them to still offer the bottle, suggesting that you can take it with you if you don’t finish it as well.

Despite being tempted by a number of the appetisers, when I saw the Pimm’s sorbet offered I had to choose that one. I think all the soups, salads and other things on the menu other places offered and I’d been thinking of making a Pimm’s flavoured ice cream. The temptation to compare what it was like was too great. As you can see from the picture, it was very well presented – a single scoop in a glass cone, nestled atop another glass filled with ice and garnished with mint. The brilliance of this meant the sorbet kept cold without being diluted. As refreshing as a palette cleansing dish, I didn’t pick up as much of the Pimm’s flavoured I’d imagined. Still the sorbet was smooth unlike the granita it could have been like.

My next dish was a fish with home made fries. The fish, a decent serving of haddock ended up encrusted in what tasted like polenta although I couldn’t taste the “herbs” the crust was meant to contain. The “salsa” was interestingly constructed with the elements of the salsa semi-stuffed into the bed of small tomatoes the fish sat atop. The chips were slightly more disappointing lacking any sort of crunch I would have expected.

Unexpectedly the last time turned out to the be the best, as I went for the Apricot Bakewell tart served with a vanilla creme fraiche. I’m surprised it took a while for this dish to come, but it seemed like they’d spent some time heating it up, but it was just the right warming temperature to finish off the meal. Sweet without being too sweet and very well made.

Service was amicable with tap water being topped up consistently throughout the meal. Slightly disappointed by a the execution of the first two dishes, but still great value. I would give it another go.

Name: 60 Hope Street
Found at: 60 Hope Street, Liverpool, L1 9BZ, United Kingdom
Website: http://www.60hopestreet.com/

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I read about the Maritime Dining Rooms before heading to Liverpool and it had some very good reviews. Although open during the day for lunch and afternoon tea, its location atop the Maritime Museum gives it perfect waterfront views of the surrounding areas.

I ended up perched next to one window looking down at the majestic Albert Docks.

When I went on the Saturday for a very late lunch, it definitely didn’t feel very busy although they had at least ten or so different tables served. Service, attended by some very young-looking folk, ended up fairly reasonably – prompt and casual although I didn’t really expect too much. Considering the space of the dining room, it felt very empty although and cold although I could imagine it being filled up for a reception or good for an event hire.

The menu offered quite a lot of choice – many British dishes. I opted for a chicken and mushroom soup since sitting outside on the Mersey ferry ride left me slightly chilled to the bone. I followed this up with an asparagus spring risotto.

It wasn’t too long before the soup arrived, and as you can see in the picture above, it came served with a small sliced (fairly chewy and unmemorable) baguette although outsized by the enormity of the soup bowl. I immediately regretted ordering a heavy main meal when I saw what I would need to tackle before getting to it. Admittedly it didn’t look like the most appetising bowl of soup I’ve ever eaten, although the deep earthy aromas whifted up with each small movement of air. It was rich, creamy and full of flavour including some fairly large chunks of chicken. This alone made my lunch time completely worth the trip.

The risotto arrived a little bit after they took the soup. As you can see, the risotto came with a creamy asparagus ring and topped with more freshly cooked asparagus. The risotto was perfectly cooked and the chefs seasoned the dish perfectly for my palette (none too salty). Despite being almost defeated by the soup, the fresh flavours of this warranted all of this dish be consumed. So I did. Delicious.

The offered me dessert, but given I had eaten so much food, I didn’t attempt to look at the menu. The Maritime Dining Room is a real find, and despite lacking that buzzing atmosphere you might care for, the food alone is worth trying. Add in a Lancashire sarsaparilla drink and a tip and all of this was a bargain for £17.

Name: The Maritime Dining Rooms
Found at: Top Floor of the Merseyside Maritime Museum, Albert Dock, Liverpool L3 4AQ
Website: http://www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk/maritime/visit/shop_eat/dining/index.aspx

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Delifonseca is a split-floor store with the top floor reserved for a restaurant and the bottom floor dedicated to a delicatessen. I didn’t get a chance to really look through the delicatessen part as I arrived for an early dinner. Even when I arrived there at seven, many of the tables upstairs were either busy or had a reserved sign. I was still offered a table although told what time the other booking was.

Despite having menus, they have an extraordinary range of daily specials written up on a chalkboard, with at least three or four for each course one might like to think about.

You don’t see gumbo on the menu everywhere and when I asked my waiter for it, he hummed in approval. It was obviously a nice choice. I’ve never tried to make gumbo because I hear a lot of the work is in making the dark roux that is necessary for a really deep flavour. I have no idea whether or not they spent a long time making their gumbo but I do know that it really tasty. The sauce very dark and definitely tasted complex and filled with peppers, sausage and other things full of flavour. The prawns grilled on the side.

I opted for dessert over a starter, and decided on a hazelnut cake that they served with a huge scoop of chocolate ice cream and some brittle. As you can see from the picture above, the serving was very huge.

I really liked this place for the friendly service and the amazing quality of their food. With a large glass of red and a tip, I paid only £27 for the very generous portions.

Name: Delifonseca
Found at: 12 Stanley Street, Liverpool, L1 6AF, United Kingdom
Website: http://www.delifonseca.co.uk/

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Mark Hix is an extremely successful chef with, what seems like, an ever-growing restaurant empire around the British capital. Fortunately I happen to live right nearby one of the earliest around the country, Hix Oyster and Chop House. I’ve eaten here several times before and although it’s packed out to the rafters during the week, thought it best to still book ahead for an early Sunday evening dinner. Located down the very end of a tiny street backing onto Fabric’s back-door step, I’m constantly amazed at the number of people who still manage to find this place.

On to the food… As soon as you’re seated, they always bring out a crusty warm loaf of bread with accompanying butter. This stuff is utterly delicious and I’m forced to stop myself from gorging myself on it in order to enjoy the rest of the menu to come. They seem to have different sizes for different tables, but it’s very nice to have to the bread presented on a tiny little bread board of its own.

I start with the Pea and Lovage Soup, and despite the warm day, end up having it served hot. I’m not one to voluntarily have a cold soup if I can help it. Cold soup seems as wrong as warm beer. As you can see, the soup has its intense greenness preserved and with whole peas scattered throughout, provides a great contrast in flavour. Pea-essence fills my mouth with every spoonful and I enjoy every last drop, although it tastes slightly over-salted as I find myself reaching for the water continuously afterwards. I have no idea what the Lovage is, but it doesn’t seem to have a strong or offensives flavour.

I order the River Severn sea trout and wild herb salad with a soft boiled hen’s egg though I pictured it more as a trout dish with the salad on the side, rather than a completely full salad dish. Nevertheless, an impressively fresh dish with light flavours and plenty of greens helping me feel healthy after eating it. I feel slightly less guilty about ordering their lucious Fried Onions in Scrumpy batter. I don’t think it totally makes up for it, but I guess it’s start.

The picture is simply proof about the perfect poaching of the egg. Loving the oozing and the rich orange yolk minus any awkwardly clear white hanging around the middle.

To finish off the meal, I end up with the two scoops of the Credit Crunch Ice Cream. I think the greed got the better of me, and had I known they were so big (or the dish so rich) I definitely would have just gone the single scoop. This ice cream is something they whipped up during the credit crunch late last year, and understandably a decadent crowd pleasure. Not only are there chunks of chocolate throughout the ice cream, mixed with honeycomb pieces all served with a hot chocolate sauce that, literally, looks like melted chocolate. Decadence and much running needed after this meal.

Service was affable, though started to be lose out as the restaurant filled up. Nice enough for a Sunday meal. Total damage for two people excluding wine and a couple of soft drinks: £82.

Name: Hix Oyster and Chop House
Found at: 36-37 Greenhill Rents, London EC1M 6BN (Off Cowcross Street between the Eat and the Nicholas
Website: http://www.hixoysterandchophouse.co.uk/

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Although I had many breakfasts staying at the Compleat Angler in Marlow, I never ate their for dinner. When I returned to Marlow, this was our destination of choice. Bowaters has two different rooms, one closer to the weir/lock where you have a continuous flow of water, and the other, slightly open-aired dining room overlooking the river to the church. With the great warm and sunny weather we enjoyed the open-aired dining room (pictured below).

Their menus is best described as modern European, the modern being the take of some slightly interesting ingredients and cooking techniques. They obviously haven’t made it past the novelty of foam just yet. Everything was perfectly executed as well, including a constant top up of four types of bread (sesame, brown, white and tomato) throughout the evening.

For starters I debated getting the goats cheese panna cotta and beetroot salad though opted out after hearing about how rich it might end up with. Someone else decided to order it (shown below) so at least I got to see how well presented it was.

Instead I opted for the clear chicken soup that arrived in a tiny serving bowl yet packed full of flavour. This was, hands down, one of the best bowls of chicken soup I’d had for some time. Served with leeks and potatoes, it was actually a pretty filling starter at that.

Next up were the mains. Picture below is the pancetta wrapped turbot, watercress salad and the dastardly foam. Reportedly well cooked and tasty.

I ordered the pork done two ways (belly and medallion) and although the belly could have been softer, was definitely well seasoned and tasty. On top sits an apple mixture and then served with a potato stack on the right. Mmm…

Who were we to resist dessert as well? Half the table when with the molten chocolate dessert served with ice cream and beautifully presented with cocoa and chocolate drops.

The other side of the table decided for the tequila burnt cream (creme brulee) accompanied with ginger shortbread. Although wonderfully executed, the tequila flavour wasn’t strong enough to shine through the crisp sugary topping and the shortbread only had the slightest of ginger flavours. I still definitely enjoyed this dessert.

We didn’t seem to have a dedicated attendant throughout dinner, and as a result we seemed to have mixed service. If it was the sommelier, he didn’t do anything to help us pick the wine and we found ourselves pouring for ourselves on empty glasses only to find the sommelier returning to our freshly poured glasses. One waiter and waitress did provide exceptional service with friendly attitudes and the best kind of service – the sort you tend not to notice throughout the evening.

Name: Bowaters at the Compleat Angler
Found at: Macdonald Compleat Angler, Marlow, Buckinghamshire, SL7 1RG GB
Website: http://www.macdonaldhotels.co.uk/compleatangler/foodanddrink/index.htm#bowaters

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