TheKua Does Food

Wagamama’s first chose Boston over New York to host a Wagamama’s. Why? I have no idea, but I can now attest it’s pretty consistent. My sister wanted to eat here since she’s trying to get to all of the ones around London and thought it’d be interesting to see how different the American counterparts were. Like all Wagamama’s, the one located in Quincy Market, looks like any other one with a fairly open kitchen, and rows of large communal dining benches with paper placemats hosting the menu.

Everything is eerily done pretty much on par, with the only notable exception for this particular joint being three staff serving all of the tables when all of the London one’s I’m used to, there seemed to be a fair number more. We noted that nothing on the menu seemed particularly different, or localised, even some of the specials we recognised from back home. Given that Boston is well known for its seafood, I had expected a number of different dishes, but I guess they have favoured consistency over branch uniqueness which I don’t really mind.

I had the Ebi (prawn) chilli men (noodles) and they had the same slightly tangy tomato sauce that I was used to. I can’t say that I was a big fan of the dish, but I think it’s the dish more so than the execution since I didn’t really like the chicken chilli men last time I had it. As you can see, the prawns here aren’t the giant shrimp you might sometimes see, but at least they were plenty full of flavour.

If you’re in Boston and haven’t made the leap across the pond, then I think you get a good idea about what the Wagamama’s experience is like from the one located in Quincy Market. The do have some decent dishes, and the service will always depend on the wait staff, who seemed adequately trained at this location as well. I think prices are reasonable (comparable to London prices) and even though the portions aren’t American super-sized, it’s plenty enough for a meal.

Name: Wagamama’s
Location: Wagamama, Quincy Market, Faneuil Hall Marketplace
Website: http://www.wagamama.us/
The good: Consistency in another country is a good thing when it comes to chains, and Wagamama’s seems to have executed that perfectly well. Good quality food at reasonable prices.
The not so good: This is more of a reflection on the location more than anything but Wagamama’s doesn’t have their own restrooms, and you have to use the communal market ones.

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This little gem is found in the middle of the Chelsea Market outfitted with a simple corner wooden bench and trendy barristas who proudly pour their latte art into reasonably sized cups.

Although fairly pricey (US$4.25) for a latte, it had the perfect ratio between steamed milk and the dark espresso blend, with a strong flavour without that bitter taste of burnt coffee. I liked how friendly their service was, and how patrons seemed to come out of nowhere just for their coffee. I’d definitely return to have their coffee, and fortunately it looks like they’ve set up two more around the city.

Name: Ninth Street Espresso
Found at: 75 9th Avenue (between 15th and 16th)
Website: http://www.ninthstreetespresso.com/

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First things first, Ninja New York is kitsch. Okay, so what do you expect of a restaurant in Manhattan with a Ninja based theme? Of course you’re not going to be served by true Ninja’s, but at least it’ll all be a little bit different. My sister had this on her list to do last time we visited New York, and this time we got our cousins to come along (and book for us) so that we wouldn’t miss out. Their entrance is narrow and easy to miss, with a waist height sign the only marker declaring it’s presence.

Appropriately, lighting is dark, and with small rooms lining a small corridor complete with sliding wooden doors, it helps to keep the feeling a lot more intimate than many other Manhattan dining experiences where it seems all too easy to interrupt someone else’s conversation. I won’t spoil some of the surprises that you might read about on other websites, but let’s just say that you want to be a bit careful about where you walk, just in case someone surprises you.

Our waitress and other waiters dressed up in all black. I can only imagine what fun it must be to dress like that for work every night. With pure nonchalance (and plenty of drama), our waitress unscrolled the menus with, what seemed like, the quick flick of her wrist before laying down in front of us. The scrolls definitely add a nice touch, and gave us a good idea about what things that they serve. I think there were two in total, one with drinks, including a fairly large selection of cocktails, a set menu and with the a la carte simply presented on printed paper.

A great thing about a restaurant such as this is that they don’t force you all to order the same set menu, or even make sure that everyone on the table orders the set menu. In fact, we ended up with two of us doing a la carte, and the other two doing two different set menus that meant we got to see and try all the different flavours available. I think all of the set menus, starting at US$50, and going up to US$90 gave at least four different courses and with appetisers and desserts averaging US$12 and mains US$30, the base one is actually fairly decent value. I didn’t bother with any of the set menu, instead focusing on the dishes that weren’t available. I also didn’t order any sushi since I think it’s better to order something you wouldn’t get at other places and the sushi is going to be overpriced in a place like this. Instead, I started with the fish and chips (okay, not a Japanese dish) but marked with the star that means that they do something flashy with it. Don’t get too excited though since all of these tend to be either some sort of flaming dish, or served with dry ice so that the mist covers it all. Unfortunately my pictures of the fish didn’t turn out but I can attest that served a decent number of large chunks of crumbed fish finished off with, what seemed like, some baked crisps and a ponzu-soy sauce.

For my main, I ordered the Bonfire, a series of Lamb Chops sesame greens, a handful of plum tomatoes and a butter set alight with some yuzu seasoning to enrichen the dish. I was a bit hesitant to order the lamb since it’s not a meat that is super popular in the US however they had been perfectly cooked, soft and pink in the middle. Fortunately it was also one of the super flashy dishes, where they set the butter alight, that literally set the entire plate on fire only to subside adding that perfect char. Delicious and delightful to watch.

Finally I finished my meal with their tiramisu, perfectly shaped to look like a bonsai tree, complete with green moss emulated with tiny cake pieces. The best dessert, at least for a spectacle was the ninja star, something that my sister ordered. It seemed a bit baffling but it’s worth it for the quick blinding light that really does make you feel like you’ve just been stunned by a ninja. I really like the picture above that seemed to capture the essence of it.

Ninja New York was definitely a unique experience. I can’t say that it’s the best food or the most unique, but really you’re paying for the experience and the entire atmosphere. Kitsch comes with it, even complete with a table-side magician, but hey, it’s all part of the charm.

Name: Ninja New York
Found at: 25 Hudson Street, New York, NY, 10013
Website: http://www.ninjanewyork.com/t
The Good: Different atmosphere with plenty of table intimacy for Manhatten. Reasonable tasting food.
The Not So Good: Pricey for the food that you get with many dishes and their “ninja art” a little bit overplayed on the menu.

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What’s better than some hot Mexican food to warm you up when it’s cold outside? At least that’s what I thought when I dropped past Goodge Street to grab a quick bite to eat at Benito’s Hat before heading out for the evening. Unfortunately my glasses didn’t quite agree with me and fogged up so bad that I had to wait five minutes before I could properly see the menu board upon walking in. I, therefore, have to give bonus points to the attendant there who gave me a takeaway menu so that I could read it while my glasses defogged.

Benito’s Hat is one of the many burrito places cropping up around town. Much like Mexicali, they give you a small handful of corn chips with your burrito but for me, the real test, is whether or not the burrito tastes great. The menu is simple, and although they offer seating, it’s an order-pay-sit affair with no real table service. At least they offer some beer and margarita to wash down your drink. I had a steak burrito competitively priced against all other burrito places for £5.50 and although I asked for it to be extra hot and some additional chillis, it didn’t quite hit the same level I get at Daddy Donkey.

Name: Benito’s Hat - Mexican Kitchen
Details: http://www.benitos-hat.com/
Found at: 6 Goodge St, Greater London, W1T 4
The Good: Many tables to eat your burritos, and some alcoholic beverages to turn a simple take away into a little bit more of a dinner out. Plenty of options and it’s warm inside when it’s cold out.
The Not So Good: The steak was a little on the tough side, and didn’t turn out to have anything that made it stand out. The salsa tasted much better than the bland-as Mexicali, though to me, still doesn’t stand out to either Daddy D or Freebird Burritos.

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Jim found Manon Cafe when we were on a project in Clerkenwell and I have to admit it’s a great little store that sells an amazing brew of Illy branded coffee beans. Only open during the weekdays, their baristas are both friendly and efficient.

Most importantly, their coffee is well made, perfectly creamy espresso that never has that bitter edge of a badly burnt coffee made by a poorly trained barista. Their prices are reasonable (£1.90 for a small latte) and best of all, they offer a free chocolate sample with each coffee because they also happen to house a Leonadis chocolate store. It’s a great location if you happen to work in the area, and the only downside is that it’s not open on weekends to enjoy.

Name: Manon Cafe
Details: 110 Fleet Street
Website: http://www.manoncafe.com/

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Wes and Stacy had booked a night out at a nice little restaurant in Aberdeen called Cafe 52. Booking in advance was a great idea since we ended up with the private room to the left of the entrance that gave us plenty of privacy and made the evening all the more special. Complete with a sliding glass door to keep the drafts from the entrance away, the only downside is that the staff had some trouble remembering that we were in the room every so often. For some reason, we ended up with yet another Australian waiter for the evening, who was fairly friendly but wasn’t particularly attentive, forgetting a number of the simple things (like water!) that we had to ask for several times. On the other hand, the chef was extremely helpful coming out to explain which ingredients were in what dish since due to dietary requirements, not everyone could eat everything off the menu.

In terms of ambiance, they had a decent soundtrack playing that wasn’t so overwhelming that meant that we could still chat away without having to shout over each other, and enough ambient noise to ensure that it never fell silent. The food was an eclectic mix combining quality Scottish produce with some tradition and definitely not so traditional recipes. I started with the cullen skink (£4.90), a traditional smoked haddock soup that went down perfect considering the sub zero temperatures outside. It matched exactly what I thought it should be, thick, creamy and full of haddock chunks. For the main, I ordered the prawns and scallops cooked in a rich thai cream sauce (£17.90). I had hoped for something with a lot more kick, but my palette instead met with a more sublime sweet sauce, infused the familiar Thai coconut flavours covering about four prawns and three scallops. Their home made fries, perfectly crisp on the outside and fluffy on the inside made the perfect compliment for soaking up the rest of the flavours just as well as a chunky loaf of bread would have been.

The dessert menu arrived and I couldn’t quite resist finishing the meal off with the coffee flavoured pannacotta though was fairly pricey at £7.90. It wasn’t the creamiest of panna cottas that I’ve had, instead lightly infused and a much lighter custard that went down almost a little bit too well with the slice of caramelised clementines. I would have preferred a much thicker coffee sauce as it almost felt like someone had spilled a little bit about coffee on the plate instead of someone making a proper sauce.

Cafe 52 offers a great experience if you can get the private booth, though I think that each dish was definitely overpriced for what you get. The dishes are definitely on the small side for the prices you pay though the ingredients seemed fresh enough.

Name: Cafe 52
Details: 52 The Green, Aberdeen, AB11 6PE
Contactable on: See http://www.cafe52.net/

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Famished after our long hike on my visit to Aberdeen, Wes and I stopped into The Potarch Hotel for dinner. We’d actually stopped at another town for dinner but since it around 5pm, and no one was opened we continued on our journey back to Aberdeen, stopping in to see if the restaurant at The Potarch was open. Although open at six, the combination of a roaring fire, and the bartender saying she’d take our order immediately left little to refuse.

Defrosting in front of the fire, the menu looked amazingly appetising and I couldn’t decide what sort of food to order. In the end, I ordered the Peat Smoked Haddock & Leek Fishcake (£6.25), and the Pink Peppercorn Crusted Loin of Pork (£11.95). I think Wes tried the Breast of Ballogie Pheasant (£11.95) but I can’t remember because they also had some sort of poultry special of the day that looked just as tempting. We had a beer in the meantime to drink as we started to feel some sensations return to our hands and it wasn’t too long before our food arrived.

All of the food came out piping hot, obviously freshly made and the fishcakes were definitely the best out of the two dishes. With three reasonably sized fishcakes, the smokiness of the fish added an amazing depth that resonated well with the flickering fire. Both crisp, light and filling, I would have been happy by the fishcakes alone. It’s such a shame they were so expensive though. I was much more disappointed by the pork that came out obviously overcooked. Definitely dry and overly tough, the thick loin definitely needed the red wine jus to be edible. I’ll admit the pink peppercorn crust added a different dimension of texture and flavour but really couldn’t quite redeem it.

The Potarch Hotel is a lovely spot, obviously popular with locals since all the other tables had been booked out for the evening. Its surprisingly bright tartan carpet seems to fit in with the rest of the decore - photos of people catching fish in the summer and other memorabilia from its past. Service wise, I have to thank our Australian waitress who came over to have a bit of chat with us although she also admittedly she quite liked keeping warm by the fire at the same time too.

I think Wes and I agreed that The Potarch Hotel has a lot of potential, but with many of the dishes overpriced by a couple of pounds, you really want to pick the dish to enjoy.

Name: The Potarch Hotel
Details: By Banchory, Royal Deeside, Scotland, AB31 4BD
Contactable on: See http://www.potarchhotel.co.uk/

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As previously mentioned last night, I had the honour of sharing, with probably fifteen hundred other people, the evening listening to Ferran Adria. Organised by Jay Rayner, and held at the Queen Elizabeth Hall on southbank in London, we all listened in awe at him sharing his experiences creating new and exciting gastronomic delights for the two million people who wish they could enjoy it, yet in reality only able to serve a few very lucky thousand each year.

Last evening’s format flowed smoothly with the majority of the time spent with Adria sharing his vision and how he’s managed to accomplish this by inventing new techniques. I doubt anyone can deny that he achieved his ambition, especially the way he talked about creating new languages, new characters and new words that are being used more and more frequently.

It wasn’t just him talking all night as well, with several audio visual clips prepared to demonstrate exactly how some of his techniques work, and the wide variety of unusual applications they have. From all the readings that I’ve done, most writers make it out to be like a laboratory when in fact it’s almost the complete opposite, being experimentation the way you’d imagine other chefs doing things, simply substituting gels, foams, and the visually spectacular liquod nitrogren where others would use boiling, frying or grilling.

At the end, Jay also opened the floor for questions and I couldn’t help but giggle a little at the veracity that some people had of raising they’re hands. As Jay best put it, “Give the microphone to that person that looks like they will die if they don’t get to ask their question.”

I thought the evening was great. Adria surprised me by how humble he comes across, and like all great pioneers, cares more about sharing his techniques with others so that they can push the benhmark even higher. He’s funny, definitely talkative, and obviously still passionate about the things that he does and you just have to respect someone with all those qualities.

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I’m just waiting for this session at the southbank centre where we get to listen to Ferran Adria and the release of his latest book: A day at elBulli. More to come after the event.

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Roast sits overlooking London’s Borough Market. It’s no wonder then that this restaurant often has long lines. When I met up with Gerrod and Kristy for brunch, their suggestion for booking ahead was a good one, proving it wasn’t too hard to plan ahead via TopTable.

You get to Roast’s entrance via a circular staircase where a hostess greets you at the small reception, taking coats, bags and anything else you may care to leave them. On our visit, two people staffed reception and when we arrived seemed quite disorganised and everything excessively chaotic. Things didn’t seem to be much different when we left, with the chaos amplified by more people waiting in line.

From reception, you walk past the flames from the kitchen, into the main dining area, an airy room brightly lit by floor to ceiling windows and skylight panels. We were lucky to dine with blue skies and bright sun shining down, though I’m sure that even in a typical British, overcast sky, the dining room would still look spectacular.

Their breakfast menu looks simple, with pretty much all of the items you’d expect of a great British breakfast, even complete with kippers. I decided to go for the eggs benedict, one of my favourite dishes though too much effort for me to think about making it home for a normal occasion. Gerrod ordered one of the three egg omelette while Kristy ordered the tattie (potato) scone, accompanied by bacon, mushrooms and a single egg. I have to agree with Gerrod’s comments that they really should serve it with some sides like toast or something else (though you can at additional cost).

I have to give full thumbs up for the table service during our visit. The waiters took our orders promptly, and the food arrived shortly after. After our meal, we sat around chatting for some time and despite the ever growing queue at the entrance, I never felt pressured by staff to leave.

Name: Roast
Found at: The Floral Hall, Stoney Street, London SE1 1TL
Contactable on: 020 7940 1300 or http://www.roast-restaurant.com
TheKua.com Rating: 8 out of 10

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